So a thought came to me today (like so many do) and I started wondering about shoes.

Horse shoes mainly the shoe shoes. Now I have seen them in many classes ranging form Park to Western, in many different lengths.

I was wondering what the normal lengths are for In-Hand. And what are weights? I have heard of weighting the horses shoe, but caulking does not weigh a lot. So? Where besides the shoe would the weight come from? Granted there are many In-Hand classes, but I mean mainly the conformation In-Hand classes not the specialized ones.

Also is there anything I should look for in a shoer? Or look out for in his work?

Thanks! XD

5 Responses to Shoes!

  1. Carley says:

    “Horse shoes mainly the shoe shoes.”

    Huh? lol.

    Ive often wondered what the limits on lengths are for any class. I always hear about the 1st and 2nd place horses being measured, but I dont think I’ve ever actually watched it happen. Maybe its done so quickly that I don’t notice?

  2. colwilrin says:

    All the regulations are listed in the USEF rule book, as well as on the USEF website. When I was a Jr. Exhib, our trainer required that we become familiar with the rules before the show season began. It makes sense, we choose to compete in a sport…we should know the rules governing our division.

    I strongly recommend that anyone who shows read the rules. They contain specifications for every division…from what color saddleseat suit the rider should wear to how they must hold different types of western reins.

    I know it isn’t an easy answer, but you learn so much and it is worth the effort.

    To answer your question, in part.

    IMO – though in hand shoeing is among the most lenient in terms of weight and length, a horse should always be shod in a way that allows it to move at its individual best. Heavier and longer does not always mean more action. A blacksmith that shod a young HVK Courageous Flaire told me that (at least while he shod him) he moved best with a 4 inch foot and regular plates. He just didn’t move as fluidly with a heavier shoe. I have also heard this is true of some of the Serenity bred horses which you must be careful to not “overshoe.”

  3. empressive says:

    Colwilrin- I probably would have looked in the USEF book I have, but it has been destroyed (dont ask) I am in the process of getting a new book. I like to keep things handy.

    That is very intersting about HVK Courageous Flaire. Basically why I posted this in the first place. I have seen many horses with all kinds of shoe sizes run through the In-Hand classes.

    Sadly, my knowledge of shoes is quite empty. So (I sound like an idiot) what do you mean by over shoing?

    Do you mean instances when the toe is too long or there is too much weight? How do change that also? Once you have a shoe on isn’t that hard to change?

    Also how much does the average show shoe cost?

    Carley- Glad I made you laugh XD Oh, I did look up on the USEF website shoe lengths (Thanks col!) it is 5 3/4″ with no shoe weight limits.

    I think that just makes things more complicated. Oh, well time for me to get smart. Thanks again!

  4. colwilrin says:

    You don’t sound like an idiot…you sound like you want to learn more about a term that you haven’t heard yet. Learning is good!

    You have the concept of overshoeing correct. It is my understanding that overshoeing is when a horse carries a “package” that is heavier or has longer toe length than the horse is comfortable with. The result is often a horse with movement that appears very labored. Rather than enhancing a normal stride, it changes the stride in a negative manner. There is no hard and fast rule for what weight/length/shoe is overshoeing, as each horse is different…and may change its ability to carry a package as it matures, muscles, and becomes a more balanced traveler.

    Some horses just don’t like much on their hooves…and will go much better without. It is trial and error really. A good blacksmith is necessary to help with that.

    Changing a package is as involved as taking the shoe/pad off, and reshoeing with a different combo. Lengths and angles may also be changed to try and help the horse perform to its best advantage.

    Costs of shoeing varies greatly. I’ve had a show package cost over 300.00….and I had that aforementioned HVK CF blacksmith charge me under 100.00 for basically the same thing. It depends on what part of the country you are in, the blacksmith’s level of talent, and what he gets as a going rate. BTW…the 300.00 guy was good and had no trouble informing me of that fact, but I never called him again!

  5. empressive says:

    Hm, K! I get it now! Thanks.

    Must take some work though shoeing a horse for the first time. I can see the trail and error part. I just don’t like the error part. LOL

    No biggie though! Thanks for explaining. Both of my girls are really good so it shouldn’t be too hard. Well thanks again!

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